Jean Bourdy Cotes du Jura Blanc 2019 SF Chronicle Clos du Cailleret is Ramonet's

Clos du Cailleret is Ramonet's monopole on the Chassagne hillside

ripe cassis

Dagueneau crosses the river into Sancerre

raised in a mix of steel

Jean Bourdy Cotes du Jura Blanc 2019 SF Chronicle Clos du Cailleret is Ramonet'sThe Bourdy family has been making wine in the village of Arlay since 1475, which is fifteen generations and makes most 'historic' domaines look like startups. What hasn't changed is the pace: Bourdy ages its wines for years before letting them go, which is why a 2019 Cotes du Jura Blanc is only reaching shelves now. This is Chardonnay, farmed biodynamically (certified since 2006) and raised for years in old barrels, which gives it the nutty, saline